Welcome back old friend! The ubiquitous annual that all shade gardeners loved is back and ready to create season-long color. Impatiens are what we are discussing.
Impatiens walleriana were attacked by Impatiens Downy Mildew (IDM). This disease caused defoliation and eventual death of impatiens well before the growing season ended. The disease was difficult to control; and airborne and overwintering soil spores re-infected new plants. This disease essentially ended sales of the once common annual.
Other annuals came to the shade gardener’s rescue; Begonia, Torenia, Coleus, New Guinea impatiens, and Caladiums but some things can never be duplicated.
Through a collaboration of plant breeders and extensive plant trials in Washington State, Michigan, Colorado, Texas, Minnesota, England, Australia, South Africa and here in Pennsylvania at Penn State, two varieties were deemed to be worthy and will be introduced for sale in 2020.
Beacon and Imara are the two brand names these new impatiens will be sold under. The Penn State trials that were overseen by Sinclair Adam revealed Beacon to be slightly better in Pennsylvania gardens. Both Beacon and Imara are hardy and vigorous for your garden but with any plant, conditions may favor one variety over the other. Color variety is not as extensive as previously but I am sure with time we will have many more to choose from.
Keep an eye out this spring for the reintroduction of this hardworking, floriferous, easy care annual.
Are you familiar with the plant commonly known as “Himalayan Sweet Box” (Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis)? This is one of those plants I dearly love, especially this time of the year.
Sweet Box is actually a shrub, but it is very low growing and spreads, creating a ground cover. No worries about a horticultural invasion. It spreads slowly – you’ll actually wish it spread faster than it does.
It does need some shade – especially during hot afternoons. If it gets too much sun in winter, the leaf tips might brown a bit. But once it is established, it can tolerate dry, shady soils – even those under established trees. It looks fresh, green and tidy all season.
The common name “Sweet Box” is very fitting. It maintains it shiny green leaves like a boxwood (although they are larger and pointy), but it gets small, intensely fragrant flowers in very early spring (in my garden – about the same time as the snow crocus). Brought inside, the flowers can subtly perfume the entire room.
One caution though, Sarcococca hookeriana is susceptible to boxwood blight so if you know you have boxwood blight on your property this may not be the best plant choice.
The selections are made by a committee of growers, nursery owners, landscape designers and other horticulturalists who have had the opportunity to observe the plants over time. They are chosen for their hardiness, pest and disease resistance, ease of growing and maintenance – as well as appearance of course.
This year, they have singled out one tree, 2 shrubs and 3 herbaceous perennials.
The tree is Carpinus caroliniana, commonly known as American Hornbeam but sometimes called Ironwood or Musclewood. It is an understory tree so its smaller size can be useful in home landscapes. It is slow growing to about 20-30 feet and has orange- yellow fall foliage. This tree is native to the mid-Atlantic.
One of the chosen shrubs is Aronia melanocarpa ‘Viking’, also known as Black Chokeberry. This native shrub has fragrant white flowers in spring that turn into glossy black berries in late summer. The berries are edible (although astringent) and can be cooked into pies and jam – or left as a food source for birds. The glossy leaves have good red fall color. ‘Viking’ is a cultivar selected for greater fruit production. This shrub grows 3-6 feet tall and wide. It can tolerate part shade, but flowering and fruiting are best in full sun.
The second shrub is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Haas’ Halo’, a cultivar of our native Smooth Hydrangea. This shrub has large lacecap flowers with sturdy stems that don’t droop after a rain. The lacecaps can be as much as 14 inches in diameter and are sturdy enough to provide winter interest. The flower heads include both showy, sterile flowerets and fertile flowers so they provide more pollen and nectar for insects than the more common ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea. Haas’ Halo also appears to be more drought tolerant (once established) than ‘Annabelle’. This shrub grows 3-5 feet tall and wide in part to full sun.
Coreopsis verticillata ‘Zagreb’ is a compact herbaceous perennial with a light, airy texture. The bright yellow flowers cover the plant from early through mid-summer, with a re-bloom in fall if the plant is cut back to half after flowering slows. ‘Zagreb’ is useful for the front of a border or in pots. It can tolerate poor soils and drought. It does need good soil drainage to prevent crown rot. This perennial is compact (12-18 inches tall and wide), long flowering and long lived.
The second perennial selected is Geranium X cantabrigiense ‘Biokovo’, commonly known as Cranesbill Geranium due to the shape of the seed pods. This plant is low growing and compact, about 6-12 inches tall. It flowers in spring with white flowers tinged slightly with pink. Although somewhat slow growing, it can create a groundcover over time. It grows best in full sun to part shade. While it can tolerate some drought, it may go dormant in late summer in dry conditions. It performs and spreads better in consistently moist, well drained soils.
Although technically a woody sub-shrub, the last selection chosen is usually grown as an herbaceous perennial. Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spire’ (commonly known as Russian Sage) is a compact selection growing to about 2 feet tall versus 4 feet tall for the species. ‘Little Spire’ grows best in full sun and medium to dry soil moisture. It is drought tolerant, deer resistant and has attractive silvery foliage. The spires of blue to violet flowers bloom for a long period over the summer.
With days getting a bit longer, the urge to get outside and “do something” starts to grow. Here are a few tasks to consider tackling this month. But keep in mind, soggy, wet soils compact very easily. Avoid walking or driving on wet soil whenever possible.
Keep outdoor evergreens well-watered and even deciduous plants if they were planted late in the season. Dry roots and drying winds will challenge evergreens to stay hydrated. Check for any deer browsing and net or apply repellent if evergreens are being chewed.
Keep an eye open for perennials that have heaved out of the soil due to freeze thaw cycles and gently push them back in place to prevent roots from drying out.
If you have bird baths, try to keep fresh and unfrozen water in them for not only birds but other animals that need a drink.
On mild days, go outside and clean out your birdhouses for future residents.
Its hard to resist the desire to start garden clean up on those mild days that pop up here or there, but try not to disturb the gardens too much yet (except for maybe pulling out some of the evil Hairy Bittercress). There are valuable critters sleeping in the debris and they need days consistently above 50 F to wake up for the season.
Use downed branches to start or add to a brush pile for the critters that share your property. These are great in far corners away from view and help with habitat. For information on brush piles click here.
If the weather is nasty, there are indoor tasks to do as well.
Dust your indoor house plants. They can photosynthesize much better without a layer of dust on their leaf surface. Be careful not to over water or fertilize. They are not as energetic in the winter, quite like us!
Take some time to peruse catalogs and on-line plant sources. Dreaming about amazing new additions to the garden is half the fun. Before you place those orders, stop to consider and reassess where those plants will go in your landscape and if you will have time to plant/care for them. Unusual items are worth the order but more “common” plants might be purchased at your local nursery in a larger size for the same cost.
Now is a good time to organize your records and get your plant tags ready for spring. If you have records of plant purchases for the previous year, use that for making tags to place when weather is mild or when spring finally arrives.
A recent study in published in the journal Science revealed there are 2.9 billion (that’s billion – with a b) fewer adult breeding birds in North America than there were in 1970. That is a loss of more than 1 out of every 4.
The study reveals it’s more than rare and exotic birds that are disappearing. There is a huge loss of birds we commonly would see in yards and at bird feeders like sparrows, blackbirds and finches. The greatest decline was in birds that migrate through eastern United States.
The total level of loss was shocking even to ornithologists who have been studying the bird loss for decades. There is fear that more bird species will follow the path of the Passenger Pigeon – which became extinct before anyone really understood what was happening.
On a positive note, populations of water fowl (ducks, geese) and raptors (like the bald eagle) have actually increased, mainly because of concentrated wetland conservation efforts and the ban of DDT in 1972. The data proves that bird populations can and will recover if we muster the personal and political will to act.
Protect birds from window strikes. Its estimated about a billion birds are killed by window strikes each year. Prevent bird strikes in your home and encourage your workplace to do the same. Here are some affordable products Cornell recommends to prevent window strikes.
Keep cats indoors. Outdoor cats are the leading cause of bird loss after habitat loss. Its estimated cats kill about 2.6 billion wild birds per year. Cats will instinctively hunt and kill birds even if they are well fed.
Replace lawn with native plantings. Currently there are over 40 million acres of lawn in the U.S. Lawns do not provide shelter or food for migrating birds while native plantings provide berries, seeds, insects and nesting areas.
Avoid pesticides, particularly neonicotinoids which are toxic to birds and can interfere with their ability to gain healthy weight and migrate on time.
Drink “bird friendly” coffee. Most coffee is grown in the sun, requiring clear cutting of forests which destroys bird habitat. If possible, purchase shade grown coffee which preserves migrating bird habitat.
Reduce single use plastic. Plastic presents a hazard to all wildlife including birds. They can become entangled and also ingest plastic, mistaking it for food.
Become a citizen scientist. Tracking bird populations across the continent is a daunting task and scientists need help. There are many different projects to choose from. You can check out the options here.
One final note – experts generally agree that feeding birds through the winter can be helpful, especially in our degraded urban and suburban habitats. It is important to keep feeders clean and provide food tailored to the birds expected to visit. Here is an overview winter bird feeding from Cornell.
Anticipation is a gardener’s motto and thinking about the possibilities for next year’s garden is what eases the long winter months. We may not be able to physically be out in the garden, but mentally we are!
Winter allows a more leisurely approach to assessing and considering changes and can help avoid planting something in haste during the season just to get it in the ground.
If you took pictures of your garden throughout the season, now is the time to revisit them to consider additions, changes, removal or repeating of certain plants. Get a notebook out and make some notes before the thought or idea evaporates.
If you have a section of your garden you are not happy with but don’t quite know why, try converting the photograph to black and white. Sometimes the problem is too many plants of similar size, shape or texture. It’s much easier to identify this without the distraction of color.
When the weather allows, stroll around your property admiring nature that is visible now that you may not have normally noticed.
If you do not see any birds or other wildlife then plan to add a feeder, a bird bath and more evergreens for winter protection.
If winter winds bring down branches consider creating a brush pile in a remote location for critter habitat instead of disposing of them.
Winter is also a great time to assess where to prune rubbing or crossing branches and dead wood as they are more noticeable without foliage. These branches can be added to your new brush pile critter habitat too.
If you have outdoor planters that contain woody plants, consider where those plants could make an impact in your landscape come spring. Also plan for any plants that didn’t quite make it into the garden from end of season sales. You can also make note of plants that need dividing and where those divisions can be placed. Come spring, you’ll be ready for action.
In the winter and early spring when you are reading gardening magazines and garden blogs about all the new plant introductions, make some notes of things that would work in your landscape. You’ll appreciate those notes when spring 2020 plant shopping starts and you encounter all the new introductions. Your notes will allow you to make better choices, clear the “should I buy this” brain fog – and hopefully save you money too!
A very important subject to think about for 2020 is how to deal with the onslaught of spotted lantern fly on your property. This is a very serious threat to many tree species and the trees will need help to cope and survive.
Here are some resources for spotted lanternfly to help you plan your strategy.
Penn State Extension has created good information about tactics to help your landscape without the inappropriate use of chemicals. You can view those resources here.
Now that winter is here – it’s seed catalog time! On a cold, snowy day there is nothing more fun than perusing seed catalogs and imagining how glorious your garden will be next year.
We thought we’d share some of our favorite seed vendors so you can check them out. In no particular order…
Johnny’s Selected Seeds – A great seed source for vegetables, herbs, cutting flowers and some annual bedding plants. This site is also a treasure trove of information to help with successful seed starting. They have calculators to help with timing your starts and succession planting, information on cultivar choice based on growing conditions, and detailed germination information. Their Growers Library is well worth a look. Although much of it is written for small market growers, it is also invaluable to home gardeners.
Select Seeds – This family owned business has an emphasis on heirloom flower seeds but also offers herbs and vegetables as well as some more recent introductions of annuals, biennials and perennials. The images and descriptions are useful and heirloom seed varieties are clearly marked. They have now added some live plants to their offering.
Prairie Moon Nursery – This company offers plants and seeds native to North America. Although they are located in the Midwest, most of their offerings are also native to the mid-Atlantic. They provide information on how to germinate native plant seeds (which can be tricky). I also like their Native Plant-Insect Interactions Chart as a reference.
Burpee Seed Company – Burpee has been growing, hybridizing and selling seeds since 1881. The company is local – you can visit their display gardens and research facility (Fordhook Farm in Doylestown) on open days. Burpee has a large variety of vegetable and flower seeds. Its always interesting to find out what is new for the coming year and they have cultivars unique only to them. Seed prices can be higher than other places though.
Geo Seed – This seed company is really targeted at professional and market growers but they do sell to home gardeners. They have a large selection of annual and perennial seeds at reasonable prices. Since they are more of a commercial supplier their catalog has limited information and no pictures so you may need to do research on the different varieties. You can view their catalog on line but they do not have on-line ordering. But, if you know what you want are fine with getting a larger amount of seed they are a great resource.
Swallowtail Garden Seeds – A nice collection of annuals, perennials, vines and vegetables at decent prices. A good source for bedding plant seeds.
Once all your fall gardening is done you might think everything is complete but if you live where deer are a nuisance, get back outside for some self-defense. If you haven’t tackled “deer defense” this fall, here are some things you can do to get your plants through the winter.
The first tip is to keep deer from habitually visiting your garden in the future. It’s easier to maintain a beautiful landscape if deer are not nibbling on a regular basis.
One way to do this is to provide screening. As you view your winter garden, determine if you can strategically plant “unfriendly” plants that will discourage deer from traveling through and screen the more tasty morsels from their view. It is often easier to see where to place screening plants in the winter landscape. Think about spiny, evergreen plants like Mahonia or American Holly (Ilex opaca) that will form a barrier and screen in all seasons.
That’s fine for the future, but what can you do to prevent significant damage from deer winter grazing right now?
You can create a barrier around specific important shrubs. For small shrubs, use nylon netting from a fabric store that is sold by the yard and is 72” wide. It comes in many colors but black or green are the least noticeable. This netting is fine and will not trap birds or catch on spiny plants like hollies—this is important for spring removal. To use this netting, guesstimate how much netting you will need, cut, wrap completely around shrub and then fold both ends together over once creating a “seam” and then use a standard stapler to keep it closed. Gather the bottom closed and staple that closed too to avoid snouts eating from the bottom up.
Stapling it closed allows you to adjust it to your shrub or small tree and in the spring it is a cinch to pull it open. Fold it up for storage and if there are large tears, just cut down to a smaller size for use next year on a smaller plant. With the 72” width, you can protect up to a six-foot tree or shrub.
Spray on repellents work when the days are warmer but the scent is diminished as the temps drop. Handmade sachets of Milorganite hung at deer head height are easy and inexpensive to make using a loose weave fabric. If you do not sew, use snack sized bags with small holes punched in them with a small hole for a twist tie to be inserted into. After winter use these “sachets” can be emptied on the ground as Milorganite is a good nitrogen fertilizer.
You can also try applying clove, eucalyptus or peppermint oil to small cotton or wool strips and tying them at five-foot height on shrubs and trees. In the spring you can drop these on the ground and they will disintegrate.
Young trees can be severely damaged and even snapped in half by bucks rubbing the velvet off their antlers. Protecting bark from buck rub is usually done in the fall by putting trunk wrap on young trees. Leave this protection up through the winter as an extra precaution. The protective wraps may also protect trees from being girdled by rodents eating the bark if we have a snowy winter. They can be re-used used for several years but should be taken off in the spring and put back on the following fall.
Another tactic which will take more time is to fully enclose an area with particularly susceptible plantings. Rebar or fence posts with either plastic or metal fencing are great although the plastic fencing can collapse with a heavy snow if not properly taut. Plastic is easier to roll up and use from year to year.
It may seem extra work to protect your plantings from hungry deer but when you consider the time, effort, and money it took to create your garden, why should the deer reap the benefits of that hard work?!
If you have any clever methods to prevent winter deer damage, please share them in the comments.
The gift giving season is fast approaching. Most gardeners are practical folks who have no need for fussy items for the garden. Here are a few gift suggestions to consider.
The gift of education! In the winter months when gardening is limited, classes are a wonderful way to gain new knowledge and scratch the gardening itch. Mt. Cuba Center and Longwood Gardens both offer many classes and workshops. A membership to these gardens is also a great idea.
Consider practical items that gardeners need but do not always want to invest in. Things like good organic fertilizers, coir bricks to add to lightweight potting soil, flexible carrying tub trugs, and heavy duty hoses—ones that can stand getting run over! A good quality hose end watering wand is always appreciated.
Quality tools can make the gardening experience so much more enjoyable. Some of our “must-have-it’s-my-favorite” tools include good quality hand pruners, Japanese weeding knife (so many uses!), a digging and spading garden fork (better than a shovel for digging up many things), a stirrup hoe (perfect for all the vegetable gardeners), a serrated soil scoop (more uses than a hand trowel).
Consider a gardening book that is specific to your gardener’s situation and interests like deer resistant or shade. Often works on a specific topic are more useful than general gardening books. Want some recommendations on our favorites? Let us know in the comments.
If you would like to impress your gardener, wrap up a box of soil with a promise of a delivery of quality compost in the spring. Gardeners never have enough compost and there will be much gratitude for such a thoughtful gift – especially if it includes some of your labor to spread said compost!
A serious gardener can almost never have too many pairs of work gloves. Gloves with lightweight rubber coating are invaluable for keeping your hands clean and dry. If heavy pruning or shoveling is planned, gloves with padded palms are appreciated. Having multiple pairs makes it easy to trot off and start the day. A pair in the car is fab as well.
Maybe some scissors or flower snips. Pairs of inexpensive scissors in can be tucked planters around the house for impromptu deadheading or for gathering flowers. These are under $5.00 and can be sharpened.
Gardening twine or plant ties (I like the reusable Velcro ties).
Gift certificates to mail order plant or seed suppliers and a copy of the catalog.
One last piece of advice… Use caution with those kitschy garden ornaments. If you don’t know the gardener’s tastes well, it might end up the equivalent to the ugly Christmas sweater…interesting but embarrassing to use.
Amsonia hubrichtii has the common name Bluestar or Threadleaf
Bluestar. It is a hardy, long-lived perennial native to Arkansas, Oklahoma and
This Amsonia has lovely, feathery foliage that adds a unique,
billowy texture to the garden. It blooms in spring with light blue, star-like
flowers – but this plant really shines in the fall with brilliant golden-yellow
Amsonia hubrichtii is easy to grow in average, well-drained
soil . With time it can grow quite large, 3-4 feet tall and wide with a shrub-like
appearance. This perennial starts slow
and may need a couple years to fill out but once established it is hardy, dependable
and rarely needs division. A polite grower, it does not spread by rhizomes and
is not known to aggressively self-seed. Amsonia hubrichtii is deer and rabbit
resistant and has no serious pests or diseases.
The flowering and fall color is best in full sun, but it
will tolerate some shade. If grown in
too much shade or very rich soil, its habit will be open and floppy. Cutting it
back about 6 inches after blooming will help prevent flopping.